Your Sign to Visit Bosnia & Herzegovina
A backpacker’s guide to the dreamiest destination in the Balkans.
Hear me when I say that this country has to be the most underrated destination for your Euro Summer trip. Bosnia & Herzegovina has it all—from crazy nature to charming old towns to rich history. If you’re looking for a unique yet beautiful spot to beat the tourist crowds, look no further.
Like many destinations in the Balkans, the best way to get from city to city is by bus rather than train. I recommend booking your tickets beforehand on sites like GetByBus or FlixBus to be stress-free, but you can always buy a ticket directly at the station. Luckily, I found that the buses are generally on-time and reliable.
For my fellow budget travelers, a HUGE perk of visiting here is that it is ridiculously cheap! Make sure to take out some BAM (Bosnian Convertible Marks) from an ATM at the airport because many taxis, restaurants, and shops will only accept cash. From accommodation to meals to transportation, your time in Bosnia will surely not break the bank.
Here are some places that you won’t want to miss while exploring this country:
Sarajevo
The cityscape view from the Yellow Bastion viewpoint.
The historic capital city of Bosnia & Herzegovina. This is likely where your trip will start if you’re flying into the Sarajevo Airport (SJJ). I recommend spending a full day and night here to be able to see all of the main attractions. You won’t need longer, but you definitely cannot skip visiting Sarajevo.
Where We’re Staying: There are a number of highly-rated hostels to stay at in Sarajevo, and many that you can find for less than $20/night. You will want to stay as close to the Old Town as possible because that is where all of the action is happening. I stayed at The Good Place Hostel which was a very low-key, homey hostel run by a nice Bosnian man named Igor. It was a very welcoming environment to stay in during my first night in a completely foreign country.
What We’re Doing:
Take a free walking tour of Sarajevo — the best way to get your steps in and learn the interesting history of the city. Meet Bosnia does a free walking tour every day at 10:30am and 3:00pm. No need to book beforehand, just bring cash (5-15 KM) to tip your guide! The guide will give details about what Sarajevo was like during the low-key recent war and take you to all of the city’s landmarks. Along the way, you’ll get to taste-test Bosnian treats, watch a man make hand-made copper jewelry, and of course, see THE spot where Archduke Franz Ferdinand was shot and WW1 began. Mind-blowing. Don’t skip this!
Shop around Bascarsija Bazaar in the old town — Sarajevo’s oldest neighborhood that gives big Ottoman period vibes. There are tons of little shops selling handmade products, namely Turkish-style coffee pots and metalwork.
Explore the abandoned bobsleigh & luge track from the 1984 Winter Olympics — I didn’t get a chance to do this but wish I had! You can take a cable car or hike up to the top where you can walk right on the track and see incredible mountain views.
Sunset at the Yellow Bastion — once a fortress used in the Austria-Hungarian War, it is now the most popular spot to catch a sunset with panoramic views of the city. Grab some friends & some beers and make the short 15-minute climb up to the fortress.
What We’re Chomping:
$1 worth of Búrek — unreal
Bürek — a spiral shaped pastry that is filled with usually meat, cheese, or other fillings. Suuuper greasy but delicious and worth a try! Share one with at least 3 other people or just ask for a slice. I found that most Bosnian food resembles German and Czech food in that it is hearty and meat and potato forward.
Ćevapi — little sausages with god knows what types of meat involved. Usually served with sides like pita, peppers, etc. If you’re going to try any Bosnian foods, these are the two staples!
Mostar
Mostar… mic drop, This has got to be among one of the most beautiful cities that I have ever visited. This town is old and it’s whimsical and it’s quiet and it will make you feel at home after just staying for a day. The river running through the city is the centerfold with picturesque views and opportunities to swim and see professionals jump from the bridges. The best part about a stay in Mostar is not just it’s historic charm, friendly locals, and jaw-dropping views, but also its proximity to other must-see stops in Herzegovina.
How are we getting there, you ask?? You can take a short 1-2 hour bus or train from Sarajevo or Dubrovnik with stunning views out the window the entire way.
Where We’re Staying:
Hostel Nina — if you are visiting Mostar as a backpacker, this is THE place to stay. Sure, there are plenty of other affordable hostels in the area, but I cannot recommend this hostel enough. Hostel Nina is family-run with three generations helping to run the place from check-in to cooking everyone a homemade breakfast in the morning. I’m not always one to lean in to social hostels, but I was so glad that I took a leap and participated in the activities offered through the hostel. They offer a day tour via van to five spots in the region which was an unforgettable way to see the area, learn the history from a local, and make friends — the highlight of my visit!
What We’re Doing:
View from the top of Počitelj Fortress
Watch the bridge jumpers on Stari Most — WARNING: these people are trained professionals, do not try this at home. Stari Most, aka the old bridge, stretches over the river running through town and is also where the famous bridge jumpers will take flight. They’ll walk back and forth across the bridge until they collect €50 from tourists before they jump— let others be generous, I say! The best place to watch them jump is from the beach right beneath. The best place to get a gorgeous picture of Stari Most is from another (less famous) bridge, Lucki Most.
Visit Blagaj Tekke — a village straight out of a storybook with water that’s clear enough to drink right from the source! See the beautiful Dervish monastery that is built beneath a cliff and be sure to bring an empty water bottle to fill from the river. There are cafes to grab a coffee at and even boats that will take you through nearby caves.
Make a stop at Počitelj — a small village along the river! Hike up to the fortress for incredible views and stop in the mosque along the way. Whatever you do, do not miss the ladies at the base of the village selling frozen pomegranate juice… seriously the best thing I’ve ever tasted.
Spend a half day at the Kravica Falls — swim in the water, lounge & have lunch! These waterfalls are jaw-dropping and way more worth the visit than the more popular Krka Waterfall in Croatia because here, you can actually swim! Entry is only €10 for the day.
INSIDER TIP: Go to Mostar’s Sniper Tower for sunset — yes, it is exactly what it sounds. This abandoned building was used as a sniper tower during the Bosnian War and carries a lot of history. It is now a hot spot for young people to go and see the sunset with a view of the whole city with friends. It is a little bit treacherous to get up there— you’ll need to hop over a wall to enter, but there is a chair to make it easier. Worth. It.